The last few weeks

I’ve been running around for the last few weeks organising everything for my imminent departure next week  This has consisted of a number of trips to immigration, housing complexes, printing and binding places, shops…etc etc. Everything seems to be coming together. All that remains is the final presentation first thing on Monday and I’m done! Other things I have been up to:

• I spread the joys of nachos yet again, cooking with a couple of people who became respondents for my research. Having been overseas numerous times they seemed to handle the ‘strangeness’ a bit better than my friends did that first time. To round off a healthy meal we also had french fries and sweets whilst we were waiting for the sauce to cook.

• I re-twisted my bad ankle. This time I was heading out to use the internet. There was water on the steps of my kos that I didn’t see and consequently slipped on in my no-grip thongs. The pain was unbelievable, much worse than the first time. The girls from my kos called one of the local women to come give me a ‘healing massage’. Massage has connotations of relaxation, but this was far from relaxing, especially when she worked on my screwed up muscle. I seem to have largely recovered now, but I don’t think my ankle (or my knee for that matter) will ever be the same

• I took the girls from my kos out to Pizza Hut for a farewell party. It was a bit of a novelty for them, not only because we were going to Pizza Hut, but also because it was the first time they had all gone out together. Everyone liked the garlic bread, but when it came to the pizza itself there were mixed reactions. One refused to try it, one other ate half a slice and couldn’t handle it, and the others nibbled away at a couple of slices. To be honest the pizzas were weird Indonesian concoctions with delightful toppings such as seafood stick and mayonnaise, and with crusts stuffed with sausage and I didn’t really enjoy it that much either!!

Climbing Arjuna

On Saturday morning I headed to the slopes of Gunung Arjuna with Phil and most of the ACICIS students – our mission: hike to the top. After a hearty lunch of soto ayam we started on our way. The first hour of the hike was along a vehicle accessible road, and it was HOT. There was little to no tree cover (all felled/ burnt away) and in the middle of the day the sun was punishing. After 20 minutes of walking uphill with heavy packs on our back we were all a sweaty mess.
By the time we started the proper part of the hike the sun had gone behind the clouds and an hour or two later we were high enough that the air was refreshing. We had our first long break by a fresh water stream. As many water companies source their water from Arjuna we were able to drink straight from the stream – icy cold and delicious. It did feel weird not to be getting water straight out of a bottle though. After our break we continued on our way, and not much later the sun began to drop below the horizon. Everyone turned on their headlights (mine didn’t work) and we ploughed on, this time through long grass and mud. The path just went on and on. Finally around 8pm we reached our campsite. We all collapsed exhausted, before quickly pilling on the layers (it was around 5 degrees).
After a few sleepless hours (it was too cold to sleep!) we all got up and started climbing again, this time to the very summit of the mountain. After the previous day I didn’t think I would be able to keep up, but I managed to find a second burst of energy/determination from somewhere and stayed with the top of the pack. We reached the summit (3339 metres!) at 6.30. The view was amazing, as was the sense of accomplishment. We could see right across Java to Pulau Madura on the north coast, Gunung Semeru, Surabaya, Malang.... The sun was out and the wind was gentle, allowing us to enjoy our time up there.
Our pace back to camp was much quicker than our pace heading up. All was going well until I slipped on some pine needles and came down heavily on my ankle. There was a snapping noise and a ‘oh my god I'm stuck on the side of an inaccessible mountain with a broken ankle’ scenario flashed through my head. Thankfully it wasn’t, but it became swollen very quickly. A couple of our guides gave it a massage (bringing tears to my eyes), we strapped it and I took a couple of neurofen. Despite that it took me a LONG time to get back.
And then I had no choice but to walk the next however many thousand meters down hill with a twisted ankle. The neurofen had started to kick in by the time we set off and the first part of the trip was ok, with a gentle decline and even ground. We reached the trickiest part of the descent just as night fell. The path was straight down, rocky and slippery. Every step I took I was absolutely terrified I’d slip or lose my footing and break my ankle. Not only was my ankle aching, the road was uneven and it was dark, the neurofen was wearing off, I was physically exhausted and sleep deprived. The road just kept going and going. Every time I looked up the path just wound off into the distance and I wanted to cry. That wasn’t really an option though so I just kept going. We didn’t get back until after 10.30 that evening.
I’m not sure that I’d ever do an overnight mountain climb again. It might not have been so bad if I hadn’t wreaked my ankle, but I can say I’ve done it now and that’s probably enough for me.

Back in Jogja/Yogja

Last week I decided to take a break from my gruelling (?) studies and take an extended long weekend back in Jogja. I probably wont have time to back there again before I leave so I wanted to visit my old kos one last time and catch up on some shopping I should have done whilst I was there in the first place. The minibus on the way there took FOREVER, over 10 hours, so I didn’t end arriving until 7.30pm. Exhausted but pleased to be back I decided to take solace in a plate of spaghetti Bolognese. Ah the joys of pasta.

I spent Saturday in Malioboro, stocking up on souvenirs, batik and magazines. On Sunday I went mall shopping at Amplaz (it drove me crazy but I did manage to find a nice dress, coat and shoes). That afternoon I went back to my kos. The ACICIS girl who moved in as I was leaving was having a birthday celebration, so it was a good opportunity to see everyone again. Then on Monday I went to Kota Gede for silver, before going to a wayang kulit producer and buying some puppets (sadly I couldn’t afford the beautiful top top quality ones painted with gold leaf - $500).

Being back in Jojga really brought home how much I love and miss it. Going back to my kos and seeing everyone (especially my old ibu kos) was like going home. Jojga has this amazing vibe – its busy and exciting and cultural and there’s always something going on. I know I probably wouldn’t have appreciated it much if I’d stayed there and not come to Malang, but this time I didn’t want to leave!

The Bung Karno Pilgramage

On Thursday I went with a couple of people (who have helped me out with my research) to Blitar, famous as the childhood town of Sukarno, Indonesia’s first president. We started off our tour with a visit to a well-known pecel Blitar warung (essentially vegies with peanut sauce). Pecel there is supposed to have a distinctive flavour, but I guess I just haven’t tried enough pecel from other areas, because I couldn’t distinguish it! After eating we walked to Sukarno’s burial sight. Apparently it used to be a public graveyard, but after Sukarno was buried they exhumed all the other bodies and moved them to another sight. A library is located at the entrance, including an exhibition area (complete with portrait of Sukarno that appears to have a beating heart if viewed from the side!). The grave itself is located under a pavilion, marked with a big dark stone with his mother and father buried on either side. Next stop was the Panantaran temple complex, dating from the 12^th century (if I remember correctly). I think I’m still a little templed-out after my trip to Angkor Wat, as I couldn’t really appreciate it. Then finally we headed to Sukarno’s old house Istana Gerbang (Gerbang Palace) and yes it was palatial. It was full of old memorabilia and photos from the Sukarno family (including his mother Fatmawati and sisters Megawati, Ratnawati and Padmawati…). It is currently for sale with an asking price of 50 BILLION rupiah! The family I was with are of true Indonesian snap happy stock and look great pleasure in recording our time at the warung, at the souvenir shop, in the street, by the car, at the bank….

Island Adventures

Last Sunday Mum, Dad and I went to a small island off the coast of South Java called Pulau Sempuh. We left the hotel early in the morning and travelled to the coast through villages bathed in dewy light. The beach that we departed from, Sendang Biru, was full of colourful fishing boats moored along the shore. One of them took us the short distance to the island

Our main purpose in going to the island was to go to a salt lake somewhere in the centre. The walk there was an hour long through a muddy, slippery, hilly path. My thongs broke several times, requiring me to fix them and get sticky mud all over my hands.

We were rewarded in the end though. Once we reached the lake the path continued along the edge of it towards a pristine beach. The view was breathtaking – an untouched stretch of white-yellow sand, shallow turquoise water surrounded by green forest on all sides, and a crystal blue sky. All too soon, after a quick swim in the warm water, we had to head back across the island to get to shore – but this time without the reward at the end!

Bromo

Very early Thursday morning (so early it may as well have been Wednesday still) my parents and I embarked on a trip to Mount Bromo for sunrise. We arrived around 4am and were greeted with the coldest temperatures I have experienced for a long time. It was ok at first, but after 15 minutes sitting on a hard cold bench on top of a mountain with cold gusts of wind I was as good as frozen to the spot. The sun couldnt rise fast enough! Before it emerged on the horizon an eeriee glow was cast over Bromo and Semeru, emerging from a valley of mist. It was very other-worldly. The sunrise itself was dwarfed by the amazing view of the mountains.
After the sun had risen we drove down into the valley to climb Bromo. The path to the mountain was black volcanic sand. The sun hadn't managed to lift the mist so we walked with limited vision, occassionally glimpsing the sides of the craters looming over us. If we were weightless we could've been on the moon! The climb up Bromo itself consisted of 200-odd steps straight up one side. From the top you could look down into the crater, though it was mostly obscured by plumes of smoke. Then at our normal waking up time, we headed back to Malang.

half way

I am now more or less half way through my time in Malang. The Saturday before last I had the ‘privilege’ of attending the UMM graduation ceremony. It was actually a compulsory activity for ACICIS, but it did have its perks. We were VIP guests, which came along with a small bag of snacks. Just as well, as in true Indonesian style the ceremony started close to 45 minutes late. In the end we didn’t have to stay for the part were everyone receives their certificates (thank goodness, as there was a huge dome full of them).

Last week we had our progress reports for our research. It wasn’t too stressful. Our presentations were spread over two days (meaning lots of food!) and everyone presented in English. It will be a different matter in two months time when we have to present in Indonesian to a room full of academics and press (or so they threaten). Apart from that life has been cruising along. I’ve done more research, more interviews and more writing. My parents are coming to visit this saturday so that will be a nice break, but after that I’m going to have to knuckle down and get the rest of my interviews done.