Climbing Arjuna

On Saturday morning I headed to the slopes of Gunung Arjuna with Phil and most of the ACICIS students – our mission: hike to the top. After a hearty lunch of soto ayam we started on our way. The first hour of the hike was along a vehicle accessible road, and it was HOT. There was little to no tree cover (all felled/ burnt away) and in the middle of the day the sun was punishing. After 20 minutes of walking uphill with heavy packs on our back we were all a sweaty mess.
By the time we started the proper part of the hike the sun had gone behind the clouds and an hour or two later we were high enough that the air was refreshing. We had our first long break by a fresh water stream. As many water companies source their water from Arjuna we were able to drink straight from the stream – icy cold and delicious. It did feel weird not to be getting water straight out of a bottle though. After our break we continued on our way, and not much later the sun began to drop below the horizon. Everyone turned on their headlights (mine didn’t work) and we ploughed on, this time through long grass and mud. The path just went on and on. Finally around 8pm we reached our campsite. We all collapsed exhausted, before quickly pilling on the layers (it was around 5 degrees).
After a few sleepless hours (it was too cold to sleep!) we all got up and started climbing again, this time to the very summit of the mountain. After the previous day I didn’t think I would be able to keep up, but I managed to find a second burst of energy/determination from somewhere and stayed with the top of the pack. We reached the summit (3339 metres!) at 6.30. The view was amazing, as was the sense of accomplishment. We could see right across Java to Pulau Madura on the north coast, Gunung Semeru, Surabaya, Malang.... The sun was out and the wind was gentle, allowing us to enjoy our time up there.
Our pace back to camp was much quicker than our pace heading up. All was going well until I slipped on some pine needles and came down heavily on my ankle. There was a snapping noise and a ‘oh my god I'm stuck on the side of an inaccessible mountain with a broken ankle’ scenario flashed through my head. Thankfully it wasn’t, but it became swollen very quickly. A couple of our guides gave it a massage (bringing tears to my eyes), we strapped it and I took a couple of neurofen. Despite that it took me a LONG time to get back.
And then I had no choice but to walk the next however many thousand meters down hill with a twisted ankle. The neurofen had started to kick in by the time we set off and the first part of the trip was ok, with a gentle decline and even ground. We reached the trickiest part of the descent just as night fell. The path was straight down, rocky and slippery. Every step I took I was absolutely terrified I’d slip or lose my footing and break my ankle. Not only was my ankle aching, the road was uneven and it was dark, the neurofen was wearing off, I was physically exhausted and sleep deprived. The road just kept going and going. Every time I looked up the path just wound off into the distance and I wanted to cry. That wasn’t really an option though so I just kept going. We didn’t get back until after 10.30 that evening.
I’m not sure that I’d ever do an overnight mountain climb again. It might not have been so bad if I hadn’t wreaked my ankle, but I can say I’ve done it now and that’s probably enough for me.

Back in Jogja/Yogja

Last week I decided to take a break from my gruelling (?) studies and take an extended long weekend back in Jogja. I probably wont have time to back there again before I leave so I wanted to visit my old kos one last time and catch up on some shopping I should have done whilst I was there in the first place. The minibus on the way there took FOREVER, over 10 hours, so I didn’t end arriving until 7.30pm. Exhausted but pleased to be back I decided to take solace in a plate of spaghetti Bolognese. Ah the joys of pasta.

I spent Saturday in Malioboro, stocking up on souvenirs, batik and magazines. On Sunday I went mall shopping at Amplaz (it drove me crazy but I did manage to find a nice dress, coat and shoes). That afternoon I went back to my kos. The ACICIS girl who moved in as I was leaving was having a birthday celebration, so it was a good opportunity to see everyone again. Then on Monday I went to Kota Gede for silver, before going to a wayang kulit producer and buying some puppets (sadly I couldn’t afford the beautiful top top quality ones painted with gold leaf - $500).

Being back in Jojga really brought home how much I love and miss it. Going back to my kos and seeing everyone (especially my old ibu kos) was like going home. Jojga has this amazing vibe – its busy and exciting and cultural and there’s always something going on. I know I probably wouldn’t have appreciated it much if I’d stayed there and not come to Malang, but this time I didn’t want to leave!

The Bung Karno Pilgramage

On Thursday I went with a couple of people (who have helped me out with my research) to Blitar, famous as the childhood town of Sukarno, Indonesia’s first president. We started off our tour with a visit to a well-known pecel Blitar warung (essentially vegies with peanut sauce). Pecel there is supposed to have a distinctive flavour, but I guess I just haven’t tried enough pecel from other areas, because I couldn’t distinguish it! After eating we walked to Sukarno’s burial sight. Apparently it used to be a public graveyard, but after Sukarno was buried they exhumed all the other bodies and moved them to another sight. A library is located at the entrance, including an exhibition area (complete with portrait of Sukarno that appears to have a beating heart if viewed from the side!). The grave itself is located under a pavilion, marked with a big dark stone with his mother and father buried on either side. Next stop was the Panantaran temple complex, dating from the 12^th century (if I remember correctly). I think I’m still a little templed-out after my trip to Angkor Wat, as I couldn’t really appreciate it. Then finally we headed to Sukarno’s old house Istana Gerbang (Gerbang Palace) and yes it was palatial. It was full of old memorabilia and photos from the Sukarno family (including his mother Fatmawati and sisters Megawati, Ratnawati and Padmawati…). It is currently for sale with an asking price of 50 BILLION rupiah! The family I was with are of true Indonesian snap happy stock and look great pleasure in recording our time at the warung, at the souvenir shop, in the street, by the car, at the bank….